Erin Levi
The rich aroma of osh plov wafted through the air, mingling with the buzz of conversation and the clink of cutlery at Chaikhana restaurant in Rego Park. Brothers Jamie and Richard Curtis, both British, inhaled deeply, the familiar scent of seasoned rice and tender meat making them feel as though they had been transported back to their late grandmother’s kitchen in London.
Yet, they were thousands of miles away, seated at a Bukharian restaurant in Queens, New York.
Jamie, 36, and Richard, 47, were on their first joint trip to NYC, eager to explore the so-called «Bukharian Quarter»—a vibrant community of 70,000 they had only heard about. As they dug into their plov, it was more than just a meal; it was a surprising connection to their heritage.
«The plov,» Jamie told The Bukharian Times, «made me feel like I was back at my grandma’s house. The smell and taste was so reminiscent of what she used to make.»
Richard, who was mesmerized by the traditional Bukharian decor, agreed. «It’s amazing how something like this can make you feel at home, even when you’re so far away.»
Their New York City adventure was more than taking in the sights; it was a heartfelt dive into their family’s heritage, even if the details — and their childhood memories — were a tad murky.
Their grandmother, Shifra Babayoff, who was born in the early 1900s, passed away years ago at the ripe age of 98, when the brothers were very young. But her culinary legacy and the traditions she carried from Bukhara, through Egypt, and into Israel, left an indelible mark on their lives.
Even into her 80s and early 90s, she’d host Pesach at her home, cooking for over 25 people. The elaborate seder, Richard remembered, would go on for «hours, and hours, and hours.»
Jamie, who works in web design, and Richard, a lawyer, had both heard of the Bukharian community in New York but hadn’t fully grasped its vibrancy until they experienced it firsthand.
«We knew there was a Bukharian Quarter, but we didn’t know how active it was,» Jamie said. «Seeing the community in action was incredible. It felt like stepping into a piece of our family’s history.»
Their exploration last month included a tour led by Menashe Khaimov, founder of Jewish Silk Road Tours of Queens and a professor of Bukharian History at Queens College.
The highlight was, of course, their visit to the Bukharian Jewish Museum. (They had found the museum’s Instagram and called up Alla Aronova to make an appointment.) Richard was particularly struck by the museum’s collection, which included artifacts reminiscent of his grandmother’s home.
«The museum’s collection—ornaments, carpets, and pictures—was very familiar,» Richard reflected. «It was like stepping back into Shifra’s house.»
The brothers were also deeply moved by the traditional Bukharian dress they had the opportunity to try on at the museum. For Richard, wearing the attire was a tangible connection to his past, evoking memories of his grandmother’s home and her culinary traditions.
«It was comforting to be surrounded by things that reminded me of her house,» he said. «The experience linked me to my past in a way that I hadn’t expected.»
They recognized the museum’s importance to the broader community and were in awe of the museum’s founder and director, Mr. Aronov.
«Mr. Aronov’s dedication to preserving Bukharan heritage is truly inspiring. His years of collecting artifacts have created an invaluable archive that will benefit future generations,» said Jamie.
While in the museum, they asked Mr. Aronov many questions about his life in Uzbekistan. They also asked more general questions, like how did the Bukharian Jews get into Central Asia? Mr. Aronov pointed to the geographical map and told them about their exodus from Babylon and later the Soviet Union.
After visiting the museum, Mr. Aronov and his daughter Alla showed them Toxsur Synagogue and to the Adult Center Dolgoletie, both of which are located in the residential building belonging to the founder of this complex, Mr. Yan Moshe, the businessman who donated a massive space in the building to house the Bukharian Jewish Museum. (Mr. Yan Moshe was given a citation by Senator Joseph Addabbo Jr. for his generosity.)
«The interior of the synagogue impressed our guests immensely,» said Mr. Aronov. «Special attention was given to the dating event for young people organized by Dr. Stella Ilyayeva’.
Later, they were taken to Tandoori Restaurant where the owners Boris Yusupov and Merik Shalomov showed them the tandir oven where bread and samsa are baked, and were treated with some national food.
A ‘suzani’ of migration and tradition
Jamie and Richard’s family history is a rich tapestry of migration and tradition. Their English father is Ashkenazi Jew with Polish origins. Meanwhile, their mother, born in Egypt, moved to Israel with her family before settling in the UK. When asked which way they leaned, they said Sephardic/Bukharian because, of course, the food.
The Bukharian traditions their mother brought with her, including the preparation of traditional dishes (everything but plov — she never got the recipe from Shifra), were integral to their upbringing.
Their visit to Queens was a whirlwind, filled with exploration of the Bukharian community’s landmarks and indulgence in its culinary delights. They also made time to visit Central Park, Brooklyn, and the Lower East Side, but the experience in Queens stood out. «We wish we had more time,» Jamie admitted. «There’s so much to explore and appreciate.»
The brothers’ journey was more than just a trip to a new city; it was a profound reconnection with their roots and a celebration of their family’s heritage. As they reflected on their experience, it was clear that the community in Queens had provided them with not only a sense of belonging but also a deeper understanding of their own history.
Expressing their heartfelt gratitude, they left a poignant line in the Bukharian Jewish Museum guestbook: «Our grandmother would have been so happy to see us here and to learn more about our history. It has been a wonderful experience for both of us,» signed Richard and Jamie Curtis (UK).
Our doors remain wide open for their return.