Hushquiliq. Even the name has a weight to it, carrying with it the rich aroma of stories, heritage, and a splash of vodka. Known more broadly as Khvorosti—or Brushwood Cookies—these little fried treasures are shaped like thorns or branches in most places. But in the Bukharian Jewish community, a twist of cultural ingenuity turns these cookies into something extraordinary. They’re roses. Rough, fried, golden roses. And each one tells a story that travels through time.
Hanukkah is a celebration of resilience, survival, and the miracles of oil. It’s also a time when frying becomes not just a choice, but an obligation. You honor the past by heating up that oil and bringing centuries-old recipes to life. Who can argue with frying dough? It’s inherently human to take something humble like flour, eggs, and oil and transform it into something that’s simultaneously practical and indulgent. Hushquiliq takes that delicious alchemy to the next level.
The Bukharian take on what many cultures call Khvorosti is remarkable not because they exclusively shape them into roses—other communities have their versions too—but because of the deeper meaning woven into the process. For Bukharian Jewish families, this isn’t just about creating something visually stunning. It’s about turning everyday ingredients into a reflection of their unique heritage. Shaping strips of dough into golden roses becomes an act of preserving identity, a declaration that says, “This is who we are.”
At the heart of these flower-like cookies, like so many Bukharian dishes, lies the connection between food and memory. They’re the cookies grandparents made for their grandchildren, the ones fried up in cast-iron kazan, filling the house with the comforting smell of warm oil and sweet dough. And when they hit the table during Hanukkah, dusted with confectioner’s sugar like freshly fallen snow, they’re more than just a treat. They’re a link to a past that’s always reaching toward the present, reminding you where you come from, one golden bite at a time.
Want to try your hand at making Hushquiliq? If you’ve got time, patience, and a willingness to roll up your sleeves and work the dough, you’re in for something special. Below is the recipe—a blueprint for rose-shaped nostalgia.
Hushquiliq
Ingredients:
- 2 lbs (900 g) flour
- 8 eggs
- 1⅔ cups vegetable oil
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- 2 tablespoons vodka
- 2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- Pinch of salt
Instructions:
- Dissolve the baking soda in the vodka.
- Combine eggs, a pinch of salt, sugar, and ⅜ cup of warm water in a bowl. Stir and beat thoroughly.
- Slowly add the flour and knead it into a firm dough. Cover the dough with a towel and allow it to rest for 1 hour.
- Divide the dough into 4-5 portions and roll each one into a very thin circle.
- Fold the circles in half and cut them into strips about 1½ cm (3/5 inch) wide.
- Unfold the strips and wrap each one around your fingers to create rose shapes.
- Heat oil in a kazan or Dutch oven and fry the roses until they are golden and crisp.
- Allow the cookies to drain on paper towels or in a colander.
- Once cooled, sprinkle generously with confectioner’s sugar before serving.
Go ahead. Make a batch. Cook them for your family, your friends, or just yourself. When you do, remember that every golden, crunchy bite carries with it a little piece of history. The kind worth preserving.
Bukharian Bites celebrates the rich culinary heritage of the Bukharian community, aiming to connect people through food. Founder Abe Fuzaylov shares recipes in each English issue of Bukharian Times, starting with issue 1176.
Avraham Fuzaylov