By Avraham Fuzaylov
There’s something about lula kebab that draws a line in the ash.
To outsiders, it’s just meat on a stick. Some call it kofta kebab, others say kufta—and sure, on the surface, it’s all ground meat shaped onto a skewer. But call it lula in a Bukharian home, and suddenly the rules change. This isn’t fast food. This isn’t your backyard BBQ. This is grilling with consequence.
In Bukharian tradition, lula kebab isn’t a recipe—it’s a rite of passage. You either do it right, or you get humbled in front of everyone. And trust me, it will humble you.
The core ingredients are simple: beef, lamb fat, onion, and spice. But the test isn’t in what you put in—it’s whether your mix stays on the skewer. If it slips into the coals mid-flip? That’s shame. That’s silence. That’s you being told to “just help with salad next time.”
Some cheat—they’ll use grill grates, or even gasp add egg or breadcrumbs. But real ones know: if you treat it right, lula doesn’t fall.
The secret? You beat the mix into shape. Not gently fold. Not stir. You slam that mix in the bowl like it owes you respect. Why? You’re aligning the fibers. Creating density. Building structure. You want it to hold like it’s been trained for this moment.
And when it does hold—tight, blistered, perfect—you don’t serve it with applause. You serve it with torn bread, raw onions, and silence.
Lula Kebab (Bukharian-Style)
Makes 8–12 skewers
Ingredients:
• 2 lbs ground beef mixed with lamb fat (70% beef, 30% lamb fat)
• 1 whole onion, shredded or processed into a pulp
• Salt (to taste)
• Ground black pepper (to taste)
• Ground coriander (to taste)
• Ground cumin (to taste)
Instructions:
Prep the meat: Combine the beef and lamb fat in a large bowl. Add the shredded onion and all spices to taste. The mix should be cold, dense, and slightly sticky.
Beat it down: This is the key step. Using your hand, repeatedly slam the mixture into the bowl. Mix and beat until the fibers tighten up and the meat becomes tacky and holds together easily. This takes a good 5–10 minutes. Don’t rush it.
Chill (optional but recommended): Cover and refrigerate the mixture for 30–60 minutes to let it firm up before skewering.
Shape onto skewers: Wet your hands with cold water. Grab a fistful of the mix and press it tightly around a flat skewer, smoothing it out and running your thumb down the spine to lock it in.
Grill: Heat up your mangal or charcoal grill. No gas. No shortcuts. Lay the skewers down gently. Let them set. Don’t touch them too soon. Once the bottom side blisters and sets, flip carefully and finish grilling.
Serve: Straight up. With raw onions, a splash of vinegar, and fresh bread.
No sauces. No garnish. Just fire, skill, and whether or not you earned your place at the mangal.
Bukharian Bites celebrates the rich culinary heritage of the Bukharian community, aiming to connect people through food. Founder Avraham Fuzaylov shares recipes in each English issue of The Bukharian Times, starting with issue 1176.